Slovenia: A Food and Photography Retreat

Peak autumn in Slovenia is the country’s most colorful and beautiful time of year with the promise of misty sunrises and russet woodlands. Couple this with Niall and Charlotte Benvie’s unique travel format and you have a memorable photographic experience at a reasonable price.

Niall knows Slovenia well and says, “It’s best to come to the country with no pre-conceptions as a photographer. Yes, the country is beautiful in an obvious way, with jagged alpine peaks weathered from dazzling limestone, orderly foggy forests, elegant churches perched ostentatiously on hill-tops, and turquoise rivers flowing through sculpted canyons. But for the photographer, there is so much more in the details, the threads of the landscape tapestry, to delight and hold our attention. It is a landscape where tradition and modernity meet, where there is pride in one and restraint in the other. You see no clear-fells here, no litter, and you enjoy being in a modern European state that values its wild nature.”

Niall and Charlotte’s retreats are for people who enjoy sharing a house in a lovely setting where you can immerse yourself totally in photography, mix with like-minded creative people, and eat very well too. Their unique retreat format is free of the restrictions of hotels, and they work mealtimes around photography, rather than the other way around. If you are weary of being herded from one “photo-opportunity” to another and want the time and space to make your own work, then this retreat to explore Slovenia is right for you. We are based on the outskirts of the village of Ribcev Laz, a 10-minute walk to the shores of Lake Bohinj. Everyone shares a comfortable, modern house, and each room has a private bath. We eat together and discuss our pictures in the dining room downstairs. There is also a sauna for relaxing after a long day. 

Good food is at the heart of this program, from breakfast through to after-dinner chocolates, all made by Charlotte. She uses local ingredients, when they are available, in dishes that are delicious and imaginative without being fussy. And that goes for vegetarian options too, often enjoyed by guests who are not normally vegetarian. Food allergies and intolerances are catered for sensitively when notified in advance on the booking form. Over the years, Niall and Charlotte have become adept at timing meals around the best times for photography, without neglecting your stomachs! With sunrise at around 7 am during the retreat, Charlotte may bring breakfast to us if we’re a distance from home.

Neatly arranged at the eastern end of Lake Bohinj, Ribcev Laz is ideally positioned with the turquoise river of the Mostnica Gorge minutes away, and the charming old villages of Stara Fužina, Srednja Vas, and Koprivnik are nearby. This region is thronged with tourists in summer, but by the time we arrive, the crowds have dispersed, leaving us to roam the ravines and silent beech forests around the lake in peace. It is an ideal base from which to explore the Julian Alps. Beyond this region, our most distant locations are Jamnik, just 70 minutes from home and an early morning drive to witness sunrise on St Primoz Church; Kranjska Gora, 80 minutes away; and that iconic Slovenian location, The Church of the Assumption, on Lake Bled, only 30 minutes away. Slovenia’s highest peak, Triglav (2864 meters), is the centerpiece of an upland ecosystem that encompasses alpine lakes, peat bogs, and mixed forests. This is where the early frosts visit and colors turn first.

Down the valley, Ribcev Laz’s neighboring villages are undergoing a steady process of “gentrification” as the area prospers. Nevertheless, they manage to retain a charm that binds them firmly into the cross-border Alpine tradition. The country’s Roman Catholic heritage is expressed in numerous shrines and photogenic hill-top churches. The irrepressible, cheery accordion music played in every restaurant expresses a still active and lively folk culture. We visit old towns where fading plaster work hints at the magnificence of another era when Slovenia, or more accurately, the Slovene lands, formed part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and before that, the Illyrian Provinces—a self-governing province of Napoleon’s French Empire.

Niall works with each photographer to hone your technical skills and refine your photographic vision. Group editing sessions and informal image reviews add to the overall creative experience. Join the Benvies in one of their favorite places in Europe to experience an unforgettable photographic and food experience.